The Fall 2023 runways were a pretty good indicator that the mini skirt’s rule was coming to an end — it may not be gone, but it certainly doesn’t have as strong of a grip on fashion as it has for what feels like an eternity ( read: a few seasons) now. Hemlines are starting to fall; and beyond the full, maxi styles that proliferated across the autumnal debuts, another silhouette has been quietly taking hold.

Hanifa Skirt

The humble pencil skirt gets a bad rep: Some see it as rigid, uncomfortable, weird-fitting, relegated to the blandest of corporate environments, belonging within the second half of the 20th century. But lately, clever creatives have been playing with these biases and subverting them in, frankly, very wearable ways: loosening them up, cutting them, adding colors to them, embellishing them, smocking them, and so on.


Prada has been a big proponent of updating the very stuffy silhouette, especially in the Miuccia/Raf era. The brand’s Spring 2023 collection has leather and printed satin pencil skirts, as well as dresses fitted in the same shape. And even as the design duo pushed the full-skirt agenda on its Fall 2023 runway, there were a handful of new riffs on the style there, too.


Givenchy also has a few different ones — from ruched to wrapped to textured — for spring, while Valentino and Nensi Dojaka have fully sequined options and Moschino presented some with floatie hems. (Ah, Jeremy Scott.)